India Business Law Journal indulges in a little festive fun and asks 15 foreign lawyers to reveal what they love and and don’t love about India and to recount their most memorable experiences in the country
By Vandana Chatlani
India’s legal market may not yet be open to foreign lawyers but many with practices focused on the country are no stranger to its charms, culture and chaos. While striking deals and resolving disputes in India may be their primary objectives, many have found time to enjoy the country’s culinary delicacies, revisit their roots, forge new friendships and take roads less travelled. We share some of their experiences.
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Partner
Winston & Strawn
[One of my pet peeves is] the horrendous carpet at New Delhi international airport
Favourite places: I have spent a lot of time over the years in both New Delhi and Mumbai. Both are equally captivating cities. Delhi feels every bit the elegant political capital city, while Mumbai has the buzz of being India’s and one of the world’s main commercial hubs.
Must-do’s: Masala chai and kulfi ice-cream. I can’t get enough of them! Also, The Imperial Hotel in New Delhi is without doubt one of the best hotels in the world and a sea of tranquillity in a hot and hectic city.
On your to-do list: Lots! But Kerala and the Himalayas are high on the wish list.
Pet peeves: Unnecessary and slow bureaucracy. The horrendous carpet at New Delhi international airport.
A favourite anecdote: Having a whole glass of orange juice accidently (I think!) thrown over me at a first early morning breakfast meeting with a very grumpy well known Indian lawyer. Fortunately, we could all see the funny side and the rest of the meeting went well. It certainly broke the ice!
Most memorable experience: There have been many. The charm, warmth and generosity of India and its people never fail to impress. For example, at the end of an intense week of negotiations and meetings a client invited me to his home at the weekend for breakfast to meet his family and then spent the entire day with me acting as a personal tour guide. It was a wonderful way to say thank you for having worked so hard together and to show me the things of which he was most proud.
Roy Montague-Jones, co-head, India group, Reed Smith
Favourite places: My favourite city has to be Mumbai for all its energy and full-on, can do attitude. In total contrast, I love the more laid back, easy vibe of Cochin and the calm of rural Kerala.
Must-do’s: I love a visit to the Sea Lounge at the Taj in Colaba and the black pepper prawns at Trishna. The Sassy Spoon in south Mumbai is also a treat. A peg of Amrut whisky also goes down well!
On your to-do list: Among the many things I still want to do are visit Srinagar and Ladakh. Also, in 15 years of coming to India, I have still not seen the Taj Mahal, so a trip to Agra is definitely on the cards.
A favourite anecdote: Not an anecdote, but something that amuses me – the sign on the revolving doors into the entrance to the tower lobby at the Taj Palace in Colaba, which indicates that playing football inside the revolving doors is not allowed!
Favourite places: Mumbai; there’s nowhere quite like it for the buzz, the busy-ness and it’s always a happy place. Hyderabad; rolling hills and relaxed after Mumbai. Then Delhi, a big city but with open spaces and parks.
Favourite things to do: Enjoying the range of properly cooked Indian food and wandering round the gardens at Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi.
Must-do’s: A visit to the AER bar at the Four Seasons and dinner at Trishna in Mumbai. Biryani in Hyderabad.
Pet peeves: Bureaucracy, bureaucracy, bureaucracy.
Changes you’d introduce? In a perfect (and non-business) world, free-flowing traffic and efficient bureaucracy. Everything else makes India what it is!
A favourite anecdote: I am still struggling to explain (as was my driver on the day), the “toll hut” which suddenly appeared on a road out of Gurgaon back to Delhi where a chit was issued at the toll-booth (in return for payment) only to be “collected” again by a very insistent man sitting on a chair in the middle of the road 20 metres further on.
Asheesh Goel, managing partner, Ropes & Gray (Chicago)
I am always trying to find the perfect street food … my all-time favourite is gol gappas from Patiala
Favourite places: I love Punjab because that is where my family lives. Patiala, where I was born, is a fun and interesting place. Most of my family is now in Chandigarh, which is fascinating and has a very interesting business climate.
Favourite things to do: I am always trying to find the perfect street food. I love Mumbai street food, but my all-time favourite is gol gappas from Patiala.
Must-do’s: I absolutely love Indian hospitality. The Oberoi in Shimla is one of my favourite places to vacation. I also love Indian classical music and street theatre so I try to find that whenever I can. One of my best memories as a kid was seeing a street performance of the Ramayana in Mohali under tents with monsoon rains pouring down around us.
On your to-do list: I would love to see Kerala. I would also love to make it to Kanyakumari.
The best curry? My mom’s! North Indian curry with pakoras simply can’t be beat.
Pet peeves: The air pollution is tough. I also think that the pace of India has dramatically changed in the last 10 years – it’s hard to find time to catch up with old friends who are much busier than I am.
Three changes you’d bring about: (1) Improve physical infrastructure through investments in roads and renewable energy; (2) preserve cultural heritage; (3) continue to invest in education.
Most memorable experience: Being six years old and touring my home town with my 85-year-old grandfather. Hearing and seeing India from his perspective will be with me forever and I hope to impart that to my children.
Favourite place: Delhi. The traffic is a lot better than in Mumbai and there is a lot more history to the city.
Favourite thing to do: I really enjoy playing in the bankers versus lawyers charity cricket match I organize in Mumbai each year.
Must-do’s: The Imperial Hotel in Delhi – it is a beautiful oasis of style and fantastic food. Other favourites are the Sofitel in Bandra Kurla Complex, AER at the Four Seasons hotel and Dome at the InterContinental – all in Mumbai.
The best curry? Jayran at the Sofitel in Bandra Kurla Complex, Mumbai.
Pet peeves: The traffic. The other day it took me 30 minutes by car to get from the Indiabulls Finance Centre to One Indiabulls, which is about 300 metres away!
A favourite anecdote: I was on a flight from Mumbai to Delhi to go to the kick-off meeting for PVR Cinemas’ IPO in 2005. I started chatting with the passenger sitting next to me and it turned out he was the CFO of PVR Cinemas and also on the way to the kick-off meeting!
Most memorable experience: My most memorable experience in India is also my worst one. I was caught in the Mumbai terrorist attacks in 2008 and was holed up in the Trident Hotel with four other guys for 38 hours before the army came to the room and told us it was safe to leave. It was a frightening experience but it did not put me off going back to India or staying at the Trident.
Kamal Shah, head, Africa and India groups, Stephenson Harwood
[A memorable experience was] swimming backwards into [Bollywood actor] Akshay Kumar at the pool in the JW Marriott and him saying sorry to me!
Favourite places: Mumbai for its amazing vibe, Marine Drive, great restaurants and even better bars; Varanasi for its surreal and peaceful atmosphere; Kerala for lush green rolling land and superb backwaters; Munnar for amazing tea countryside; and Nainital, a magical hill station.
Favourite things to do: Eating pani puri at Elco Market in Bandra, drinks at Dome at the InterContinental Marine Drive, visiting Chor Bazaar in Mumbai for trinkets and old posters, an early morning walk along Marine Drive, quick sightseeing in between meetings and sneaking in a Hindi film when time permits.
Must-do’s: Vaishala Restaurant in Ahmedabad is my favourite Gujarati thali place and Indian Accent restaurant in Delhi is a must-do as it’s the Fat Duck of India.
On your to-do list: A night visit of the Taj Mahal and a Palace on Wheels train journey.
The best curry? Vaishala in Ahmedabad where they serve it on banana leaves and you eat sitting on the floor.
Three changes you’d bring about: Ban the class system, more poverty reduction, reduce delay in the courts.
Most memorable experience: Swimming backwards into [Bollywood actor] Akshay Kumar at the pool in the JW Marriott and him saying sorry to me! Paying a very frail looking rickshaw driver in Ahmedabad an extra ₹50, and him giving it to a beggar nearby instead.
Co-Head, India Group
Reed Smith
[At the wedding of someone close to me during a Bollywood-style sangeet, I] managed to throw a bouquet of flowers into Narendra Modi’s lap!
Favourite places: Calcutta and Siliguri – the wonderful rivers of Bengal run deep in my veins, and because of all my family and friends there; Mumbai, an amazing, vibrant, turbo-charged, powerhouse, super jumbo of a city; Udaipur – staying at the Lake Palace is a delight and delectation.
Favourite things to do: Face-to-face time and building relationships with our clients; seeing family when time permits; browsing the many wonderful bookshops – there are so many hidden gems; visiting the CSR [corporate social responsibility] initiatives we are involved in.
Must-do’s: Trishna restaurant – an iconic jewel of a Mumbai eatery that always puts a smile on my face; Bukhara and Peshawri – indulgent and mouth watering food and I always wear the aprons even though not necessary; stocking up on things at Fab India and Good Earth for my family, our home and for friends; Rhythm House – an absolute institution, but much to my shock and horror it’s closing in February 2016; drinking Indian wine, which I think is so underrated; eating Bengali sweets and Bengali sweet yoghurt.
On your to-do list: I would love to play cricket at Eden Gardens. How about a foreign lawyers versus Indian lawyers match for charity? I’d like to visit Ladakh and Leh, Dharamshala and Nagaland. And as I used to DJ in my long-gone student days, how about DJ’ing at a Goa beach party?
Pet peeves: The very liberal use of horns on the roads. Sometimes “Horn is not OK please”.
Three changes you’d bring about: Better living conditions for many and less entrenched inequality; a wider and concerted commitment to CSR and pro bono work by the legal community; the restoration of so many lovely old buildings.
Most memorable experience: Two weddings in Jaipur and Goa of individuals very dear to me and the Bollywood-style sangeet performances that two of my closest lawyer friends and I inflicted upon the unsuspecting guests. At one of them, I also managed to throw a bouquet of flowers into Narendra Modi’s lap! I’m just grateful that we were not escorted off the premises!
Rajiv Gupta, partner, Latham & Watkins
Favourite places: I grew up in Delhi and it remains my most favourite city in India. I also love Kerala – beautiful, relaxing with amazing beaches and great food.
Favourite things to do: Food – my most favourite pastime in India! Also, visiting the local art scene, crafts, and historical sites are fascinating.
Must-do’s: Bukhara in Delhi is a must! Indian art galleries and bookstores are also always very interesting to visit.
The best curry: Kerala has the best curries.
Pet peeves: Long queues at airports, traffic delays and a lack of good mobile networks.
A favourite anecdote: I was recently invited to speak at the Tata Annual Global Meet 2015 in Goa. Not only was it a great experience, learning about how India’s premier organization works so well as a unit, but I was also able to sample the great Goan beaches, curries and amazing Portuguese churches that have been declared a world heritage site.
Favourite things to do: Having an ayurvedic massage at a hotel.Must-do’s: I like the Trident hotel at Bandra Kurla Complex in Mumbai and Trishna restaurant.On your to-do list: I’d love to visit Jaipur.
Pet peeves: The air pollution and traffic jams.
A favourite anecdote: When a taxi driver once asked, “Sir, turn left?”, I replied “right”, meaning “correct”. Of course, he misunderstood me and turned right.
Most memorable experience: A trip to the Ellora and Ajanta Caves. They were fantastic.
Deepa Deb-Rattray, head, India group,
Berwin Leighton Paisner
Kolkata [is my favourite place] … it is rich in culture (Bengal gave us Tagore), theatre, poetry and history
Favourite places: Kolkata, probably because it is where my origins are … it is rich in culture (Bengal gave us Tagore), theatre, poetry and history.
Favourite things to do: Enjoying a traditional Indian breakfast. Nothing can beat an Indian masala omelette accompanied by a paratha and authentic spicy chai. You cannot beat the quality of good Indian food combined with traditional Indian hospitality. I tend to steer clear of upmarket places, my favourites are the unexpected finds.
Must do’s: Touring Rajasthan is a favourite. The abundance of palaces that have been converted into hotels means one can truly experience living like a queen. The beautiful Pink City of Jaipur, the abundance of temples and natural reserves … you can never get bored.
The best curry: At my mama’s house in Kolkata made by my aunty!
A favourite anecdote: I remember our annual family trips to India when I was growing up. I recall dreading them because of having to be surrounded by endless cousins, aunts and uncles. Our English manners and accents when speaking either Hindi or Bengali were always dead giveaways when trying to bargain. I also remember feeling an acute sense of sadness whenever we returned to England, as if a part of me had been left behind. I missed waking up to the morning bhajans [devotional songs], the sounds of temple bells and cows mooing.
Most memorable experience: Staying at the Lake Palace in Udaipur. Truly special and memorable, especially since one of my favourite Bond films, Octopussy, was filmed there.
Administrative Partner
K&L Gates (Seattle)
[My favourite place] has to be Delhi University’s campus. I grew up on the St Stephen’s grounds eating samosas and mince and drinking nimbu paani
Favourite place: It has to be Delhi University’s campus. I grew up on the St Stephen’s grounds eating samosas and mince and drinking nimbu paani [lemon water] with my classmates who are now spread all over the world doing grand and lofty things.
Must-do’s: Eat butter gravy, visit Dilli Haat, see new cultural changes, and drive around India Gate.
On your to-do list: Visit the backwaters of Kerala.
The best curry: Moti Mahal in Defence Colony, Delhi.
Three changes you’d bring about: No more queues; less traffic; and more festivals to celebrate.
Most memorable experience: Growing up in India meant a series of celebrations all year round. The celebration of lights and life that is Diwali remains a fond memory as it means friends and family gathering together to usher in a new year with lights and laughter. That sense of community and spirit of commonality you feel the day before and after Diwali remain some of my favourite memories.
Nilufer von Bismarck, partner, Slaughter and May
In Delhi, [I enjoy visiting] the Nizamuddin Dargah [shrine] for Thursday and Friday qawwalis
Favourite places: Mumbai – for its pace of life, vibrance and spirit.
Favourite things to do: In Mumbai, a walk around Chowpatty or an evening drive around Marine Drive; in Delhi a visit to the Nizamuddin Dargah [shrine] for Thursday and Friday qawwalis [devotional music].
Must do’s: In Delhi, the Olive Bar & Kitchen has an unforgettable setting. The food at Bukhara is legendary, especially dal Bukhara! Sagar has great south Indian food, and SodaBottleOpenerWala is great for something more casual. For shopping, Dilli Haat is fantastic, but Janpath and the Cottage Industries Emporium are great places to browse and buy, as are the various state emporia on Baba Kharak Singh Marg. In Mumbai, Tote on the Turf and the adjoining Neel restaurant have an amazing setting with design that echoes its setting in a mangrove canopy, with fantastic food and drink to match. Gadda da Vida has a great setting, and of course AER has an amazing view, although I am told that the reopened Asilo is even better. Trishna restaurant in Kala Ghoda is a must-visit, as are Masala Kraft and Shamiana at the Taj. Any Gujarati thali place should be on this list. For shopping, walking around Colaba can’t be beaten.
On your to-do list: Sailing in the backwaters of Kerala and taking the Nilgiri Mountain Railway to Udhagamandalam.
The best curry: Karim’s in Delhi, of course!
Most memorable experience: Travelling in Mumbai and Delhi with 11 partners from across our European “best friend” firms – from France, the Netherlands, Spain, Italy and Germany.
Chair, India Practice
Herbert Smith Freehills
My idea of heaven is sitting in the outdoor restaurant at the Raas hotel [in Jodhpur] nestled under the fort, and preparing for a lecture series
Favourite places: India is full of fascinating cities, but I have a particular soft spot for Jodhpur. My idea of heaven is sitting in the outdoor restaurant at the Raas hotel, nestled under the fort, and preparing for a lecture series we are running at the National Law School in Jodhpur – which is in fact what I will be doing next March with professor Timothy Endicott from Oxford Law School.
Favourite things to do: I really enjoy running and whenever I get the chance between meetings I go for a run around streets or local parks. I love the sun, so the hotter the better.
Must-do’s: The hotels in India are some of the best in the world, so I try and vary where I stay to experience the variety on offer. That said, I tend to return to the Imperial in Delhi time and time again – I can unpack with my eyes closed!
On your to-do list: While I have travelled around India extensively, there are endless places I still want to visit including the stunning north, which I have heard so much about. My aim is to do some road trips by Royal Enfield.
Most memorable experience: I could fill your journal with my experiences in India but it would be hard to beat my 30 marathon walks in 30 days down the west coast of India from Mumbai to Bangalore. I did this to mark 30 years at Herbert Smith Freehills and to raise money for widows and their children in India via the Loomba Foundation.
Shreya Lal Damodaran, senior India consultant, Cleary Gottlieb Steen & Hamilton
[Mumbai is] such a melting pot of different communities, and has an ability to welcome migrants with dreams of a better life perhaps like no other city in India
Favourite places: Bangalore is my favourite city of all time, being the place that I grew up in. Bombay is another city that is a favourite. It has a very positive vibe to it – across office workers, taxi drivers, shop assistants and others – and I experience that each time I visit. All of them reflect a “can do” attitude, which is fantastic. It is also such a melting pot of different communities, and has an ability to welcome migrants with dreams of a better life perhaps like no other city in India.
Must-do’s: I miss “Indian Chinese” food. I always get my fill of it when I’m in India (including at the Golden Dragon in the Taj Mahal, Colaba). I also make it a point to visit some small but legendary authentic dosa joints in Bangalore (such as MTR and Janardhan). I’ve even tried (in vain) to convince them to open branches in London!
On your to-do list: I would love to head to the Sahyadris to trek in the hills as I used to do when I lived in Mumbai. I would also like to travel a bit further, maybe Himachal or eastern India.
Pet peeves: In Bangalore particularly, the reduction in tree cover is startling. The boom in IT businesses and the related strain on Bangalore’s infrastructure means that the “Silicon Valley” tag now seems more apt than “Garden City”.
Erik Richer La Flèche, partner, Stikeman Elliott
Partner
Stikeman Elliott
Favourite places: New Delhi, Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Kerala, Puducherry, Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh.
Favourite things to do: Walk in small towns and drive through the countryside (especially at or near harvest time).
On your to-do list: Sail around India.
A favourite anecdote: Mid-nineties: I fly from Montreal to the south of India via Frankfurt. I arrive in the morning and proceed to meet the client for the first time. I am led into a room with a round table and five men. A fan is slowly rotating above. The men are the top four executives and an IAS [Indian Administrative Service] officer immaculately dressed in white. After the usual entreaties, we sit down and I open by saying that I realize that everyone in the room is probably brighter than I am. Everyone acquiesces. I continue by stating that they are probably better educated than I am. Again they acquiesce. Seeing that conversation would be difficult, I then ask why they would want someone from Canada to fly in to assist. After a very long pause, the IAS officer simply says, “because we do not trust each other”. Little else needed to be said. My instructions were clear!
Most memorable experience: I have had many but the most recent was an eight-day trek in Ladakh’s beautiful Markha Valley.
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